"Gays are locked in roiling debate over whether to wear Nasty Pig at a fancy restaurant"

While few disagree over the importance of gay-owned fashion brands–and the history of how accessories have fostered connection among gay people during times of persecution-the question persists, “Is there a time and a place for a dog collar?”

The mainstreaming of Nasty Pigs

Founded in 1994, Nasty Pig opened its first Chelsea storefront at a time when few brands were marketing to gay men. Over the ensuing 32 years, founders David Lauterstein and Frederick Kearney have turned Nasty Pig into an global symbol, worn by the likes of Madonna and Frank Ocean.

Much like the mainstreaming of jockstraps and speedos, Nasty Pig is no longer subversive. In a 2024 New York Times piece, an art consultant in Manhattan likens the logo, an abstract pig snout, to Lululemon.

Still, with a collection featuring lascivious looks such as see-through tanks and crotch-hugging rugby shorts, Nasty Pigs is g-a-y in a way that a Calvin Klein jockstrap is not.

“What Nasty Pig has done is take archetypal pieces of the gay subculture, what you used to have to get at the Leather Man on Christopher Street, and make them more commercial and accessible to a much larger audience,” a fashion designer told the Times.

Nasty Pig as a statement

When Nasty Pigs hit store shelves, the first treatments for AIDS started to circulate. NBA legend Magic Johnson also revealed his diagnosis, pushing back against the homophobic notion that AIDS was a gay scourge.

As gays became more muscled, the company created tight-fitting clothes that accentuated their physiques. Many of the products were overtly sexual. For Lauterstein, who’s in his mid-50s, a tight-fitting leather piece doubles as a statement.

“Sexual positivity wasn’t a thing then because sex was terrifying, especially for gay men and queer people,” he told the Times. “Nasty Pig opened to reclaim that identity and fight for it.”

In defense of wearing sex-forward attire to fancy establishments, some posters have brought up Nasty Pig’s counter-culture history.

They say they’re honoring that history by being their unabashed, provocative selves regardless of setting. The call to action seems especially important today, given the current authoritarian administration in D.C.

In a nod to Nasty Pig’s viability, gay celebs and politicos alike often model for the brand. Most recently, hunky daddy and former Pennsylvania rep. Brian Sims wore his tightest fit.

Drag Race icon Violet Chachki also transformed into a leather daddy.

Nasty Pig, showing that the brouhaha is not that serious, has already come up with its own restaurant-friendly lock necklace.

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Setting matters

The days-long discourse over Nasty Pig is far from the first time, and won’t be the last time, that a snide quip shared online sets off a roiling reaction over something that wasn’t really said at all. Going back to the first post, “Alex” wasn’t remarking on Nasty Pig’s history or place in gay sexual liberation.

He just said it’s tacky to wear locked necklaces at dinner.

On a similar note, Vox writer Alex Abad-Santos pointed out that no one at the Oscar’s was wearing Nasty Pig-branded attire–including the Heated Rivalry guys. “Disappointing that no one is wearing nasty pig to the oscars considering the importance of the brand’s counter culture history,” he posted.

As for what “Alex” was getting at, we’ll allow him to explain for himself. “…did I say Nasty Pig was a bad thing?,” he said. “Damn. I just think it’s not stylish.”

Now that that’s settled, time for us to peruse the Nasty Pig catalogue. Our summer social calendar is already filling up.

Except, debauchery is on the menu, not a finely seared filet!